Winifred Aldrich

This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children s Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements First the sections have been re organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children s clothes Today s popularity of easy fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic flat pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children s wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition Shaped blocks and garments cut to fit the body form are still included and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners Parts One Two and Three and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children s wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations Finally the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing The clear division of the boys and girls measurem

The term tailored has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as tailored jackets Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today The different approaches to tailored cutting are described under three headings bespoke cutting engineered cutting and style cutting The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women s emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production

La creación de patrones teniendo en cuenta las características de los diferentes tejidos es uno de los aprendizajes más difíciles en la formación de un diseñador de moda: saber cómo se comportará el tejido es esencial para diseñar y realizar plantillas de nuevos modelos. Sin embargo, el amplisimo espectro por el que se mueve el material textil (plana, punto, encaje, fieltro, plastico, piel, etc.), la gran diversidad de usos a los que se destina la ropa (trabajo, deporte, ocio, etc.) y la extrema complejidad a la que ha llegado la tecnologia textil en los ultimos años suponen un reto constante para el diseñador, quien debe conocer a fondo, de forma intuitiva y practica, el material basico de su actividad, es decir, el tejido. Con el objeto de facilitar este aprendizaje y mediante un enfoque totalmente didactico, este libro proporciona una introduccion al diseño y al patronaje plano basandose en los tejidos y la forma del cuerpo. Para ello, deja de lado la tecnologia del tejido y explora aquellas caracteristicas visuales, tactiles y estructurales que determinaran su comportamiento sobre el cuerpo, y que resultan imprescindibles para identificar dimensiones de corte y para realizar patrones de nuevos modelos. Asi, tras una introduccion a los diferentes tipos de tejido totalmente enfocada al desarrollo de patrones, el cuerpo central del libro recoge cientos de ejemplos de formas, cortes y patrones en funcion del comportamiento de los diferentes tipos de tejido. Las detalladas explicaciones de Winifred Aldrich estan profusamente ilustradas con cientos de dibujos tecnicos, patrones planos y fotografias de modelos con prendas. Tejido, forma y patronaje plano se dirige especialmente al estudiante, quien encontrara en este volumen todas las claves para identificar las cualidades particulares de cada tejido asi como metodos sencillos para valorarlos y manejarlos. En definitiva, se trata de una esplendida introduccion para encontrar el sentido del tejido, usarlo de manera intuitiva y realizar con soltura patrones de nuevos modelos.