Sergio Consuegra

La cantidad de información a la que podemos acceder actualmente es desbordante. La proliferación de la cultura deportiva, los cada vez más y mejores rocódromos, el fácil acceso al material de escalada, internet... Todo esto ha facilitado enormemente la practica de un deporte tan increible como la escalada. Sin embargo, no siempre sabemos filtrar y seleccionar cual es la correcta. La mayoria de la gente que entrena -y no solo en el ambito de la escalada- basa sus ejercicios en lo que ha oido, lo que hace su amigo (que a el le funciona), lo que propone aquel -influencer-, el -no pain no gain-, lo que se ha hecho siempre, la -bro science-... El proposito de este manual es aportar informacion de calidad al lector, desde el escalador que quiere dar un paso mas en su entrenamiento -este comenzando a escalar sexto grado o trabajando el octavo- hasta el tecnico deportivo que quiere mejorar los entrenamientos de sus alumnos. Este libro no proporciona ningun metodo de entrenamiento magico ni revolucionario, sino que trata de analizar las necesidades deportivas desde el punto de vista de las ciencias del ejercicio para enseñar al lector a desarrollar un entrenamiento basado en la evidencia, y no en la videncia. La primera parte de este libro busca conseguir que el lector entienda que

When it comes to training for climbing, there is an overwhelming amount of information out there. In The Science of Climbing Training, top Spanish climbing coach Sergio Consuegra has analysed our sporting needs from the perspective of exercise and sports science to provide an evidence-based approach to training for climbing. It is designed to help us improve climbing performance, whether were taking the next step in our training as we work towards a project, or if were a coach looking to optimise our athletes training. It doesnt contain any magic training methods, because there are none although you might be shocked by the science behind some popular methods.The first part explains what training is and how different training methods are governed by the physiological and biomechanical processes that occur in the body. The second part looks at how to improve specific needs (such as finger strength and forearm muscle endurance) and general needs (such as basic physical conditioning, pulling strength, pushing strength, strength training for injury prevention) for the different demands and types of climbing and bouldering. The third and final part suggests the best ways to fit it all together. It looks at adjusting training volume and intensity, and tapering to encourage supercompensation, all to help us achieve improved performance, whether its a breaking into a higher grade, ticking that long-standing project or climbing a dream route.